CTR has kindly given MXGB permission to publish their guide to 'General Fork and Shock absorber' set up.

 

 This article will be presented in two parts so be sure to check us out again soon

FORKS

 

If you are receiving your forks after a service or re-valve they should be ready to bolt straight onto your bike out of the box they have arrived in. The compression and rebound adjusters should be set within two or three clicks either way, plus the oil level should be close to correct for you.

 

When fitting the front spindle make sure that it is not tight going through the foot on the bottom of the left fork leg allowing it to be pulled over when tightening the spindle nut. This forces the legs together at the bottom, which doesn't allow the fork legs to run parallel with other!

A good way to overcome this problem is to take the bike off the stand and push the forks down as hard as possible a couple of times before tightening the spindle pinch bolts on the bottom of the fork legs.

 

SETTING THE COMPRESSION

 

Step One:

 

When riding, the forks should flow smoothly. They should react to all changes of terrain form small to large bumps. If the forks seem harsh on small choppy bumps, lighten the compression damping.

 

Step Two:

 

With the compression damping set for smooth action over small bumps, the forks should also work over the rougher terrain. The forks should bottom over the worst obstacles on the track. If harsh bottoming occurs, either increase oil level in 5ml amounts or call to discuss / solve problem.

 

SETTING THE REBOUND

 

The rebound damping is the speed at which the front wheel returns to the ground. Rebound is not only responsible for straight line handling but also is the energy that hold your front wheel in a corner.

 

Step One:

 

Find a good corner on the track preferably a short sweeper. The front forks compress to set up for a turn (providing you ride correctly and use your front brake.) the speed at which the front rebounds is the energy that pushes your front end into the ground. If the forks are allowed to rebound too quickly, the energy will be used up too early and the front wheel will wash to the outside. If the forks rebound too slowly, the front end will tuck under and turn and too soon to the inside. (ADJUST ACCORDINGLY)

Step Two:

 

With the forks handling well in the corners, go onto rougher sections of the track. The fork action should be smooth and the wheel should return to the ground quickly. It should not bounce off jumps or deflect off  berms.

 

Below is a list of the most common asked maintenance questions. In addition are some of the things that cause the most money if not attended to!

 

SHOCKS

 

  1. External cleaning and inspection.

Once a month look for dull or pitted spots on shaft, Check for leaking around seal.

 

  1. Cleaning under bump rubber.

Once month slide the bump rubber up the shaft and inspect the shaft where the bump rubber sits this is very important to prevent shaft damage/replacement.

 

  1. Greasing the linkage.

Once a month grease all the shock bushings and all suspension linkage parts.

 

4.      Fluid changes & internal inspection.

Every 3 to 6 months, depending upon type of riding.

 

  1. Seal replacement.

Once a year.

 

FORKS

 

  1. External clean and inspection.

Every time you ride.

 

  1. Fluid changes.

Every 6 to 8 months.

 

  1. Internal cleaning & inspection.

Every 3 months depending on amount of riding.