CTR has kindly given MXGB permission to publish their guide to 'General Fork and Shock absorber' set up.

 Part 2

 

SHOCK ABSORBER

 

Before checking and/or setting the sag make sure that all suspension points are greased and are free to move through their full movement!

 

SETTING THE SAG:

 

The sag of your bike is determined by the rate of your spring, and the amount the spring is pre-loaded. Sag is very important, so spend time in doing it right.

 

Step One:

Put the bike on a stand so that the weight is off the rear wheel. Take a measurement from the center of the wheel spindle to solid point on the frame above, preferably within the arc of the wheel spindle. Often the rear of the silencer is a good point. Write this measurement down!!

 

Step Two:

Ride Height

Take the bike from the stand and place it on level ground. Bounce the bike lightly a couple of times and let it settle. Position yourself on the on the seat directly above the footpegs, get someone to measure this again using the same points of your first measurement. Write this figure down below the first measurement. Subtract measurement (2) from measurement (1)

Example:        600

                        -505

                        =95mm

This is known as RIDE HEIGHT.

 

Step Three:

Static sag

With the race sag set the static sag should be between15mm and 25mm. If the static sag is less than 15mm then the spring fitted is too soft. If the static sag is more than 25mm then the spring fitted is too hard. It is important that you get these measurements to make it possible to set the damping correctly.

 

Setting the rebound:

 

When setting any of the damping clickers you should always start from the fully closed position (clockwise in), and count the amount of clicks out (anticlockwise).

 

Step One:

 

When starting off with the rebound adjustment (bottom), set it between 1/3-1/2 the amount of clicks out. I.e. if there are 26 clicks set it between 8-13 clicks out. When the sag is set correctly, find a fairly long straight with some braking bumps going into a corner. Back off or soften the rebound until the rear end starts to feel a little springy or loose, then turn the rebound screw in until the springy sensation goes away.

 

 

Step Two:

 

Find a jump that launches you a bit. When you land the wheel should hit and absorb the ground but not bounce up. If it bounces, add two clicks of rebound each time until it stops doing it.

 

Step Three:

 

Go to a set of whoops. The bike should track straight absorbing the bumps and the rear wheel should return quick enough to the ground so as not to pack down. Packing is caused by the rear wheel not coming back fast enough from the last bump to be fully extended to absorb the next bump. If packing occurs, back off or soften the amount of rebound damping.

 

SETTING THE COMPRESSION:

 

Step One:

 

With the sag and rebound properly set, find a corner on the track that has sharp choppy acceleration bumps exiting the corner. Here the bike should follow the ground and react to these bumps. If the rear wheel seems to loose traction/bounce over the tops of these bumps, soften or back off the compression. A good starting point for the compression adjuster is half way out, I.e. 12 clicks of 24 out.

 

Step Two:

 

Try some rough sections, a few jumps, and a couple of G-outs. You should bottom on the worst places of the track, but it should not be a bone jarring experience.

Remember.

Your external adjusters are primarily for low speed adjustment only!

 

Note: These tips are only starting points and are not necessarily correct for everyone. If you are having trouble, this will get you in the ball park.

Please note that CTR will be closed from Fri 2nd March 2001 to Mon 12th March 2001

Any other problems don’t hesitate to phone CTR on 01945 881126 From Mon 12th March CTR will be trading as K-TECH SUSPENSION PRODUCTS Tel: 01530 810625